CHENGDU, April 12– Japan’s Ai Mori won the women’s lead title at the 2026 World Climbing Asia Championship in Meishan, southwest China’s Sichuan Province, on Sunday, securing a golden double after her boulder victory on Friday.
Mori, who qualified for the final in first place, was the only climber to complete the route in the final.
The 2023 world champion said that claiming two gold medals would be “an important source of confidence” for future competitions.
“I honestly didn’t expect to win the boulder event two days ago, and in the lead final I was able to hold on and deliver when it really mattered,” said the 22-year-old.
She noted that one section of the route required a dynamic move she does not usually favor, with a reach greater than she had anticipated during observation.
“The final section was also very difficult. My arms were completely pumped, but I managed to finish the moves,” she added.
By sweeping both titles, Mori also secured Japan’s remaining women’s boulder and lead quota places for the upcoming Aichi-Nagoya Asian Games.
Reflecting on the tears she shed after Friday’s boulder final, Mori described mixed emotions about a title in a discipline that is not her main focus. “I didn’t expect to win at all.
I mainly train for lead, and I didn’t feel I had the level to deserve this title.
I felt a bit sorry toward athletes who specialize in bouldering, that was why I couldn’t hold back my tears,” she said.
South Korea’s Seo Chae-hyun took silver in the women’s lead, while Japan’s Natsumi Oda claimed bronze.
Japan swept the podium in the men’s lead, with Neo Suzuki claiming gold ahead of Sorato Anraku and Shion Omata.
China’s Pan Yufei finished sixth and later revealed he had been competing while unwell.
“I felt dizzy all morning and didn’t had breakfast. I vomited right after the semifinal climb,” said the World Cup winner.
“I was still dizzy in the evening, though at least I didn’t feel like throwing up. Every move felt exhausting, but I gave everything I had.”
Pan added that his recent bouldering training helped him endure the physically demanding final.
“My winter training worked well. Today I relied on a bouldering mindset to push through every move.
Even with my condition, I could still hold certain grips, which gave me more confidence,” he said.
As the championship concluded, Japan topped the gold medal table with three titles, while China, South Korea and Indonesia each claimed one. (Namibia Daily News/Xinhua)
